Hallo zusammen,
ich habe mir dieses Jahr einen Satz dieser netten Scheiben gekauft. Nicht neu, weil mir deutlich zu teuer. Ich habe aber einen Satz hier im Anzeigenteil bekommen. Zustand neuwertig und zufällig passend zu meinen BST Rädern. Auch gebraucht gekauft.
Um eines gleich zu klären, ich arbeite für mein Geld und habe keinen reichen Daddy und wenn ich mir für die Kohle ein paar Tage " on Track " gebucht hätte, dann hätte ich wohl mehr davon gehabt.
Aber das Handling meiner CBR 1000 Bj. 06 ist damit der absolute Hammer! Schnelle Schräglagenwechsel gehen spielerich von der Hand!
Ich habe nur das Problem das mir die Bremsbeläge ( XRAC und CP2.11 ) immer sehr schnell verglasen.
Habe zwischen den Turns schnell auf Stah zurück gerüstet, weil die Bremsleistung gegen Null ging! Auch die Scheibe ist eher glänzend als matt.
Wer kann mir da einen Tipp geben? Was mache ich falsch? Hatte jemand ähnliche probleme?
MfG Wolle301177
Habe die Beläge schon mehrmal abziehen müssen!
CMC Bremsscheiben mit Ferodo Bremsbelägen
Fahrwerk, Tuning, Reifen, Tips&Tricks,...
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- wolle301177 Offline
- Beiträge: 3
- Registriert: Donnerstag 28. Juli 2005, 10:43
- Wohnort: Düsseldorf
CMC Bremsscheiben mit Ferodo Bremsbelägen
Kontaktdaten:
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- Walnussbaer Offline
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- Registriert: Dienstag 9. November 2004, 19:26
- Motorrad: ZX7RR
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- Windy Offline
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- Motorrad: grün !
- Wohnort: Chiemgau
die beläge sind schon richtig, johannes 
ich hab mal was gelesen, dass auch diese scheiben einem gewissen verschleiß unterliegen. dieser macht sich aber nicht im schmälerwerden der scheiben bemerkbar, sondern soll was mit dem material an sich zu tun haben.
leider find ich den link nicht mehr.
ich hab mal was gelesen, dass auch diese scheiben einem gewissen verschleiß unterliegen. dieser macht sich aber nicht im schmälerwerden der scheiben bemerkbar, sondern soll was mit dem material an sich zu tun haben.
leider find ich den link nicht mehr.
In der Kurve kann jeder schnell fahren, auf der Geraden, da brauchst Du Leistung !
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- mr_spinalzo Offline
- Beiträge: 4719
- Registriert: Mittwoch 19. November 2008, 19:36
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- mr_spinalzo Offline
- Beiträge: 4719
- Registriert: Mittwoch 19. November 2008, 19:36
ich hab die braketech iron scheiben und war auch der meinung, dass einfahren nach handbuch ode ist 
spass hab ich damit erst jetzt
hier die anleitung für CMC
auf jeden fall solltest du bei xrac oder cp2.11 bleiben und nicht hin und her wechseln
Best way forward for cleaning the rotor operating surface is to mount the rotors on the wheel, spin rapidly by hand and employ a medium grit sandpaper like Emery Cloth (120 grit) on both sides. Just enough to change the surface condition away from the rather shiny transfer film appearance.
Follow this up with a clean rag soaked with Acetone (no aerosol / spray brake cleaners...that's for cleaning calipers) and wipe down the rotors thoroughly.
The following details the bed-in procedure for the Carbon/ceramic race pads with our CMC rotors:
To clarify, the length of time required to bed-in the CP2.11 Carbon/ceramic race pads is very definitely longer and more protracted than with our special sintered metal based XRAC. Although the basic procedure for this process is essentially the same, the carbon pads do take notably longer to come in due to its base material structure.
So start out by limiting maximum braking to roughly 60-65% and gradually ratcheting this up over a extended period, which will lead to optimal braking performance when finally completed. On the street, this can be well in excess of 100-150 miles. On the track, it will take several sessions to complete.
The proper procedure includes the requisite thermal cycling of the brake pads. Once the braking response begins to noticeably improve at the lever (which as detailed above, takes longer than would be expected), at this point it is important to increase both speed and energy into the brake system. The easiest way to accomplish this final stage is to perform a series of relatively high speed stops, i.e.: braking successively harder from roughly 90mph to 40mph very quickly 7-8 times in rapid succession.
With the Carbon/ceramic CP2.11 race compound brake pads, they need to get quite hot during the latter high-energy process as the final cure of this compound is performed on the motorcycle. It is important to allow the brake pads to cool back down to ambient. This completes the requisite thermal cycling – they are then good to go for the life of the pads.
Pls be very sure to follow the break-in procedures as outlined. This is very important.
The CMC rotors (and all others for that matter) operate on a transfer film basis laid down on the brake pad sweep area, and won’t work properly until that is in place. Problems can sometimes arise in this process and develop an uneven transfer deposition – which typically results in an annoying brake judder. And depending on how much their out in DTV (disc thickness variation), can range from moderate to severe.
All of which is to say the system break-in is very important to be done as prescribed.
spass hab ich damit erst jetzt
hier die anleitung für CMC
auf jeden fall solltest du bei xrac oder cp2.11 bleiben und nicht hin und her wechseln
Best way forward for cleaning the rotor operating surface is to mount the rotors on the wheel, spin rapidly by hand and employ a medium grit sandpaper like Emery Cloth (120 grit) on both sides. Just enough to change the surface condition away from the rather shiny transfer film appearance.
Follow this up with a clean rag soaked with Acetone (no aerosol / spray brake cleaners...that's for cleaning calipers) and wipe down the rotors thoroughly.
The following details the bed-in procedure for the Carbon/ceramic race pads with our CMC rotors:
To clarify, the length of time required to bed-in the CP2.11 Carbon/ceramic race pads is very definitely longer and more protracted than with our special sintered metal based XRAC. Although the basic procedure for this process is essentially the same, the carbon pads do take notably longer to come in due to its base material structure.
So start out by limiting maximum braking to roughly 60-65% and gradually ratcheting this up over a extended period, which will lead to optimal braking performance when finally completed. On the street, this can be well in excess of 100-150 miles. On the track, it will take several sessions to complete.
The proper procedure includes the requisite thermal cycling of the brake pads. Once the braking response begins to noticeably improve at the lever (which as detailed above, takes longer than would be expected), at this point it is important to increase both speed and energy into the brake system. The easiest way to accomplish this final stage is to perform a series of relatively high speed stops, i.e.: braking successively harder from roughly 90mph to 40mph very quickly 7-8 times in rapid succession.
With the Carbon/ceramic CP2.11 race compound brake pads, they need to get quite hot during the latter high-energy process as the final cure of this compound is performed on the motorcycle. It is important to allow the brake pads to cool back down to ambient. This completes the requisite thermal cycling – they are then good to go for the life of the pads.
Pls be very sure to follow the break-in procedures as outlined. This is very important.
The CMC rotors (and all others for that matter) operate on a transfer film basis laid down on the brake pad sweep area, and won’t work properly until that is in place. Problems can sometimes arise in this process and develop an uneven transfer deposition – which typically results in an annoying brake judder. And depending on how much their out in DTV (disc thickness variation), can range from moderate to severe.
All of which is to say the system break-in is very important to be done as prescribed.
schmerz ist wenn schwäche den körper verlässt
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- wolle301177 Offline
- Beiträge: 3
- Registriert: Donnerstag 28. Juli 2005, 10:43
- Wohnort: Düsseldorf
